The Churning of the Ocean Milk



Angkor Wat (Photo by Sang Kimleng)

Earlier in the week we had traveled overland on route 6 to Siem Reap, where the Angkor temple ruins are located. The drive takes about 6 hours and is amazingly scenic. Outside the window was the luscious countryside, vibrant fertile green fields of tall grass, palm trees and large bodies of water dotted with lotus flowers.  Our bus swiftly swerved in and out of traffic, passing pick up trucks overflowing with goods and passengers; motor bikes with mattresses and other furniture attached to the seat;  motor bikes with pigs strapped together and tied onto seats; motor bikes with women riding side saddled, their sandals dangling delicately onto their feet, yet never falling off.

Bayon Terrace

I'm still quite sore and actually pulled a muscle climbing through ruins. It can be quite strenuous. It can also be incredibly annoying due to the volume of tourists, especially at Angkor Wat and the surrounding temple complex. You will inevitably encounter those individuals who will pose and photograph themselves in front of a landmark for like 30 minutes, seemingly oblivious that there are hundreds of people trying to capture a photo. 

This is where my dear friend Sang came to the rescue.   

He's a photographer and runs a guest house in Siem Reap that thankfully isn't listed in any of the major travel guides.  He knows all the back roads and routes to get around the crowds. He took us on a pilot episode of "Off-roading in the Tuk Tuk with Sang".

Beng Mealea

Beng Mealea is one of those gorgeous outlying temples that doesn't get much foot traffic.  It's a 2 hour drive from Siem Reap on a road that runs along the base of the Koulen mountains. The temple was built in the 11th century under the rule of King Suryavarman II and many scholars argue that it may have been the model for Angkor Wat. The jungle has overrun much of the structure as it was abandoned for years under Khmer Rouge rule and it currently isn't considered a part of the Angkor World Heritage site. Snacking on sticky rice with black beans wrapped in thin rolls of roasted bamboo, we made the trek with Sang in a moto driven rickshaw.

 

Lost Temple

I spent several hours at Beng Mealea climbing over broken walls, clambering over moss covered stone and scaling precariously along the outer edges of the labyrinth structure. Resembling strong hands, there are trees roots that gently lift entire sections of the inner sanctuary, in a silent confirmation of nature's strength. Thin tree limbs hang from the sky, flowing to the earthen floor in smooth spirals. I was completely absorbed in my element, feeling my skin baking in the immense weight and heat of the jungle, running my fingers through the rust colored dirt and watching the pale patterns of sunlight trickle through the canopy of abundant lush forest.

Angkor Wat Rule No. 01: Let go of your travel guide  : -)

Ta Prohm....ROOTS!