City of Angels, BKK

 



Wat Arun

It's the dry season of late November and the relatively cooler climate in Bangkok is "just hot." This I learned a few years ago while visiting here and complaining about the heat.  A young man who introduced himself as "Penelope" flamboyantly explained to me the three seasons of Bangkok..."hot, very hot and so very fucking hot! Right now girl, it is just hot". 


Surprisingly the adjustment to the 15 hour time difference has been unnoticeable.  I haven't had any jet lag. None!  I think this may be due in part to the herbs that I consumed en route and the stockpile of mangosteens that we've amassed...those small dark purple colored fruits with thick skin and a citrusy flavor.  These delightful lemon size balls of perfection are slightly sour and incredibly sweet at the same time.
 

The Bottom of the Reclining Buddha's Feet


Yesterday involved a visit to one of my favorite temples in the area, Wat Pho, where the largest reclining Thai Buddha resides.
The Buddha's body is enormous and made of gold. The bottom of his feet are constructed of mother of pearl and are about the
size of a MUNI bus. There's also a massage school on the temple grounds and for 480 Baht (about $15 USD), you can schedule an incredible hour long full body massage with herbal compression. I've heard Thai massage referred to as 'lazy people's yoga' and it's a pretty accurate description.  The aromatherapy of the heated packs of herbs pressed into stressed muscles takes the whole experience to another level.  (Maferefun Ewe!)

The traffic here moves, as in Japan, on the left hand side so I'm constantly reminding myself to look right first! Much unlike Japan, crossing the street here is a feat of embracing the chaos with a 360 degree vigilance. I've gotten a lot better at it,stepping into the street with confidence that the cars, the diesel belching trucks, the motos, the moto driven rickshaws and everything else on the road will swerve around me. I'm often standing in between 6 lanes of traffic trying to work it out.
The not for tourist green curry is an inferno of bliss.  Usually after about the third spoonful, I can feel my heart pounding in my ears and the sweat trickling between my shoulder blades.  It's soo viciously hot, but so delicious. I'm finding that cannot stop eating it even when my eyes water, I can't see quite straight and my mouth, lips and tongue become inflamed.

"Bangkok makes Las Vegas look like Salt Lake City..." said a Brasilian fellow that we met last night at Lumpini market. Well, in fact there are some things that happen in Bangkok that should stay in Bangkok. So gorgeous, violent, opulent, peaceful, shady, raucous and seductive is the City of Angels with it's air scented in hints of incense, rotting garbage, garlands of orchids, dried salted fish, vehicular exhaust and meats simmering in coconut oil.
 

Street Noodles on Sala Daeng