Showing posts with label Bangkok. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bangkok. Show all posts

Saturday, January 5, 2013

The Visa on Arrival

The Grounds of Wat Pho

I had initially planned to stay in Bangkok for a maximum of one week and now it’s been a full 10 days.  As we waited for visa approval letters for Viet Nam during the holiday period, one day easily became two, which naturally became three.

I think after a couple of trips here, I’ve finally managed to fully grasp the concept of allowing myself to become a part of the traffic when crossing the street.  The traffic here is a sort of friendly chaos that makes crossing the street part instinctive, part intuition and all confidence that the approaching vehicles will effortlessly swerve around you if need be.  Everything is to be taken one lane at a time.
Khaosan Road at Night

The locations where we’ve stayed so far have been in close proximity to Khaosan Road, a well developed backpacker haven somewhat known for its debauchery.  Every evening the street explodes in bright collisions of colorful lights, with the bass lines of several dance tracks grooving at different intervals from the bars on the sidewalk and right now there’s no escaping ‘Gangnam Style’. It can be fun, but too much of a good thing can be an assault to the senses.  In contrast, a short ride on the Chao Phraya River will bring you to Wat Pho, where you can immerse yourself in the peaceful atmosphere while visiting the place where the largest reclining Thai Buddha resides.  It’s also possible partake in a massage at the excellent massage school on the premises.  I was fortunate to take a private long boat through several undulating curves of the city’s canal network and along the way had the chance to dangle bits of bread with my fingers into the water from the side of the boat to feed a large population of thick plump grey catfish with hungry oblong mouths.

Usually when the term ‘visa on arrival’ is used, it means that the entry visa is stamped in your passport at immigration when you arrive at a border with little preparation beforehand.  Although the visa for Viet Nam is consistently referenced as a visa on arrival, what I didn’t realize is that this visa is really a pre-arranged one.  This means that we had to obtain approval letters beforehand to be presented when entering immigration in order to obtain the actual tourist visa.  The visa approval letter did eventually arrive by email and I was very much looking forward to traveling to Ho Chi Minh City today only to be told this morning that my flight had been cancelled.
Inside the Long Boat

With yet another added day in Bangkok, I took the opportunity to revisit the Chao Phraya River. Gently rocked in the river’s bosom, I slowly fell into a light slumber amidst the sound of the water.  Although the boat was swaying, the surroundings today seemed eerily still as even the wind seemed to hold its breath.  I’m anticipating what tomorrow will bring and I’m quite certain that I’ll finally be on the way to my next destination.  In the meantime, I’ll enjoy the stockpile of mangosteens that I’ve gathered…those small dark purple coloured fruits with thick skin and citrusy flavor.  Like Bangkok, these delightful balls of perfection are slightly sour and incredibly sweet at the same time.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

City of Angels, BKK

 


Wat Arun
It's the dry season of late November and the relatively cooler climate in Bangkok is "just hot." This I learned a few years ago while visiting here and complaining about the heat.  A young man who introduced himself as "Penelope" flamboyantly explained to me the three seasons of Bangkok..."hot, very hot and so very fucking hot! Right now girl, it is just hot". 


Surprisingly the adjustment to the 15 hour time difference has been unnoticeable.  I haven't had any jet lag. None!  I think this may be due in part to the herbs that I consumed en route and the stockpile of mangosteens that we've amassed...those small dark purple colored fruits with thick skin and a citrusy flavor.  These delightful lemon size balls of perfection are slightly sour and incredibly sweet at the same time.
 
The Bottom of the Reclining Buddha's Feet


Yesterday involved a visit to one of my favorite temples in the area, Wat Pho, where the largest reclining Thai Buddha resides.
The Buddha's body is enormous and made of gold. The bottom of his feet are constructed of mother of pearl and are about the
size of a MUNI bus. There's also a massage school on the temple grounds and for 480 Baht (about $15 USD), you can schedule an incredible hour long full body massage with herbal compression. I've heard Thai massage referred to as 'lazy people's yoga' and it's a pretty accurate description.  The aromatherapy of the heated packs of herbs pressed into stressed muscles takes the whole experience to another level.  (Maferefun Ewe!)

The traffic here moves, as in Japan, on the left hand side so I'm constantly reminding myself to look right first! Much unlike Japan, crossing the street here is a feat of embracing the chaos with a 360 degree vigilance. I've gotten a lot better at it,stepping into the street with confidence that the cars, the diesel belching trucks, the motos, the moto driven rickshaws and everything else on the road will swerve around me. I'm often standing in between 6 lanes of traffic trying to work it out.
The not for tourist green curry is an inferno of bliss.  Usually after about the third spoonful, I can feel my heart pounding in my ears and the sweat trickling between my shoulder blades.  It's soo viciously hot, but so delicious. I'm finding that cannot stop eating it even when my eyes water, I can't see quite straight and my mouth, lips and tongue become inflamed.

"Bangkok makes Las Vegas look like Salt Lake City..." said a Brasilian fellow that we met last night at Lumpini market. Well, in fact there are some things that happen in Bangkok that should stay in Bangkok. So gorgeous, violent, opulent, peaceful, shady, raucous and seductive is the City of Angels with it's air scented in hints of incense, rotting garbage, garlands of orchids, dried salted fish, vehicular exhaust and meats simmering in coconut oil.
 
Street Noodles on Sala Daeng